BABYL OPTIONS: -*- rmail -*- Version: 5 Labels: Note: This is the header of an rmail file. Note: If you are seeing it in rmail, Note: it means the file has no messages in it.  0, unseen,, *** EOOH *** Path: yale!cmcl2.nyu.edu!oitnews.harvard.edu!das-news2.harvard.edu!cam-news-feed3.bbnplanet.com!news.bbnplanet.com!cam-news-hub1.bbnplanet.com!howland.erols.net!newsfeed.internetmci.com!news1.bellglobal.com!freenet-news.carleton.ca!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!aj739 From: aj739@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Margaret Burwell) Newsgroups: rec.sport.skating.ice.figure Subject: Re: photography at competitions Date: 7 Jan 1997 20:12:23 GMT Organization: The National Capital FreeNet Lines: 40 Message-ID: <5auan7$2l0@freenet-news.carleton.ca> References: <32D2236E.5FD9@irisa.fr> Reply-To: aj739@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Margaret Burwell) NNTP-Posting-Host: freenet6.carleton.ca X-Given-Sender: aj739@freenet6.carleton.ca (Margaret Burwell) Julia Lawall (jll@irisa.fr) writes: > What is the best kind of film to use? Is it necessary to get special > film so that things come out with the right color? I have two lenses: > 35-70mm and 70-?. I'll be sitting in the 10th row at Europeans. > Will the 35-70 be usable at all? > > Thanks, > julia Hi Julia, Welcome to the wonderful, wacky world of skating photography. You shouldn't need any special film to get things to come out the right colour. Most photo labs can correct any minor colour shift caused by arena lights. You do want to get a fairly fast film in order to 'stop' the action. I used to use Kodak Gold 1000, but I have found in that last couple of years that it is too grainy. Barry Mittan convinced me to try Fujicolour 800 and I'm a total convert now. Forget about Fuji 1600 - it has grain the size of golf balls. I also use Kodak Tri-X for black and white which is an ISO 400 film and push it to 1000. I like the black and white because I do my own processing and save a bundle of cash that way. Be prepared to take a ton of pictures in order to make sure that you get some that are in focus and not the back of the head - another reason for b&w. For us, amateurs that is, often the photos that turn out the best are not of the skaters we like the best - which is why we are amateurs. You will probably find that the 30-70 mm lens is not enough. I'm currently using a 90-300 mm lens for skating pictures. I can get a reasonable shot over half the length of the ice - beyond that, forget it. Another factor will be how fast a shutter speed you can get. 1/60 of a second should be considered an absolute minimum with 1/125 or 1/250 much better to stop the action. If you want to check out my sucesses, I have a few photos on my web page at http://www.cyberus.ca/~burwellm/skating/pictures/pictures.htm Let me know how you make out. Marg  0, unseen,, *** EOOH *** Path: yale!news-mail-gateway!daemon From: "Manuela Federella" Newsgroups: rec.sport.skating.ice.figure Subject: Skating photography Date: 12 Jan 1997 03:15:57 -0500 Organization: Yale CS Mail/News Gateway Lines: 72 Sender: daemon@cs.yale.edu Message-ID: <19970112031542.aaaa004yc@babyblue.cs.yale.edu> NNTP-Posting-Host: babyblue.cs.yale.edu Julia Lawall (jll@irisa.fr) asked: > What is the best kind of film to use? Use ASA 800 film as a minimum. I tried ASA 400 but realized it's not fast enough. Fuji 800 has very _little_ grain if correctly exposed and is especially good for action photography. Fuji recommends not to push this film... did someone here try pushing this particular film ? (I'd be curious to hear about the results). > 35-70mm and 70-?. The latter is the right one. Is it 70-210? You don't specify the max. aperture (do you have a f.2.8 lens?) and if you have manual control on the camera. However, from 10th row, I'd say you need 210mm. A 100-300mm zoom would be IDEAL. Use 1/250 sec. as a minimum and if lighting is good you'll need an aperture of 4.5 or 5.6. Be careful however, because depth of field will be _minimum_, esp. at 4.5 (or 2.8) and you'll have to carefully keep the focus on the skaters, body or head, or you'll easily get non-focused photos. Overexpose some, 1 stop or more, because meter reading can be foolished by the brightness of the ice. So, if your metering system says that 1/250 f.8 is OK, use 1/250 and _5.6 or 4.5_. Overexposure is better than underexposure anyway... Use the metering at max focal length before the event, then do the adjustments manually. And good luck. PS: For singles, shoot vertically. Manuela Milan Italy manu.fdr@iol.it http://haskell.cs.yale.edu/sjl/skate-images/manuela/index.html (some sk8n photos) http://users.iol.it/alba/ (my sk8n photos @ A. Reani's "Ice News") **************************************************************************** "The skater has wings, talaria, to his feet." "Quite a musical cracking, running like chain lighting of sound athwart my course, as if the river, squeezed, thus gave its morning milk with music. A certain congealed milkiness in the sound, like the soft action of piano keys". (H. D. Thoreau on skating) ****************************************************************************